March 13, 2004

Mass Murder in Madrid

Ted Barlow of Crooked Timber points us to Edward of Obsidian Wings, who says what we would all like to say:

Obsidian Wings: Numb and Reflective: Two days ago an as-yet-unnamed enemy shattered the peace and broke the heart of a great city, a great nation, and a lovely people. I've been to Spain three times. Once in the mid 80's, once a few years later, and then again just last year. The transformation there since the mid 80's has been impressive, as joining the EU helped it rise out of its second-to third-world conditions back into a vibrant capital of commerce, culture, and vitality. The following are observations and facts I learned on my most recent trip, where I spent two short weeks working and commuting in Madrid.

Although it has been "slowing down" a bit in the past few years, the nightlife in Madrid after Franco rivaled that of any other city in the world. To get home at 6:00 AM was to leave your friends behind dancing still...dinner began at 10 pm, the good bars opened at 2:00 am...and everywhere you went people were laughing and dancing and dancing and laughing.

Somehow, the morning commuters stilled looked fresh and relaxed after all that. Rush hour in Madrid is beyond bustling, but polite. It's one of those European cities where adults on the way to the office and children on the way to school acknowledge each other and show respect to each other (very much unlike New York). Couples on the commuter trains and subways are sweetly intimate; parents are clearly in love with their children and play with them, and touch their hair, and shower them with attention. I saw none of the agressiveness I see daily in NYC...even the speed walkers would stop to apologize if they bumped into someone. Morning in Madrid struck me as a fairytale solution to getting millions of people where they need to go.

I happened to be in Madrid when millions of people protested against the coming Iraq invasion across Spain. I marched in the protest in Madrid that day. It was an unforgettable experience. Grandparents and children, teenagers and parents, marching, chanting, and yes, dancing and laughing, between the shouting and chanting. After years of oppression under Franco, they were, I had the sense, really happy just to be able to participate in such a massive public expression of opinion. The freedom to take to the streets, and shout their dissent, and then carry on to dinner or home, with their arms around their family, was clearly a joy for the people of Madrid.

In most ways, that evening looked exactly like the photos in the papers today of hundreds of thousands of people gathered in Colon Square, where I had ended up that day. It was cold that night and we appreciated the heat of the crowds as we made our way through the streets, but there was a warmth to the event that I'll never forget. A sense of family and freedom and passion and a great love for life.

It was very cold in New York last night...as I look at the pictures in the paper this morning, I can't help but imagine it was cold in Madrid last night too...I imagine the people in the street clinging to each other for strength and warmth...my heart aches for them...

In the coming days, decisions will have to be made about how to respond to this attack. May God grant Aznar the strength and wisdom to do what's best and right for his people. As is unavoidable, the response will be politicized. That's human nature. Today, however, I grieve for the people of Spain...not as a Democrat or a Liberal, but as someone who fell in love with that city of politeness and passion and beauty and spirit. I pray God comforts them in all the ways he can.

Posted by DeLong at March 13, 2004 03:50 PM | TrackBack | | Other weblogs commenting on this post
Comments

About 9 weeks ago I was riding on those same trains passing through Atocha. I was stunned to see what had happened.

I lived in Spain as a child (1986) and upon returning was struck by how much it has changed. Twenty years ago it was poor, now it is quite wealthy. But what really got me was the sense of community there. Three generations will pop out after siesta and slowly promenade up the street. Crowds gathered in Puerta del Sol on December 30th to celebrate December 31st, drinking and laughing. Lots of lingering, talking, savouring going on in that country...

It seems very natural to me that the Spanish would respond to tragedy by spilling into the streets. (Although, heh, wouldn't you know it: El Pais claims that the protest today was stimulated by text messaging.)

Posted by: Saam Barrager on March 14, 2004 12:11 AM

____

Hmm. I posted a comment in this thread yesterday. It's gone today. The comment was short, it didn't seem particularly aggressive, mentioned only Aznar, referred to a particularly merciless adversary (which was Islamic terrorism) and it had nothing obscene. The only remark was a quote in Spanish being chanted by Spanish socialists (I won't repeat it, but it was reported in all the SPanish newspapers). I admit the comment was implicitly critical of Aznar.

The comment's gone today. DeLong, this is your blog and I am aware of your use policies (this is not USENET). You have the right to disallow whatever you want, but I am puzzled why it was deleted? If it offended somebody I would like to know!

Posted by: CSTAR on March 14, 2004 07:40 AM

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"As is unavoidable, the response will be politicized. That's human nature."

Lots of bad things can be characterized as "human nature" and yet they are not tolerated. I hope Spain's politicians respect their fellow citizens' grief and decide to honor their dead by policies that prevent further senseless mass homicides... and not by spinning this tragedy into olive skin hathred. My hunch is that hathred of anything olive (and disrespect for their hard earned democracy) is going to be a much more hazardous political course in Spain than it's been over here.

Viva Espana! Long live the Spanish democracy!

Posted by: Jean-Philippe Stijns on March 14, 2004 10:25 AM

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Yes, the people of Spain have shown what they are made of. Playdo. They may indeed avoid near future attacks if they behave as instructed. The most certainly increase the likelyhood of other allies recieving similar attacks in the hope of bringing more "desirable" gov'ts to power.

Thank You Spain. You carry on a European tradition of appeasement and reliance on American fortitude to do what needs to be done.

Posted by: Brian on March 15, 2004 07:48 AM

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Last week, I held the view that a terrorist attack on America before Nov would count as an event that would ensure a Bush re-election. I even thought that if Bush poll numbers didn't improve, this administration was capable of faking such an attack (on American soil) to improve the ratings.
My condolences to the people of Spain and any of us that have family or friends there. Please excuse Brian's remarks. Spaniards and Americans are not as different as he suggests.
Ironically and sadly, he makes the ( but not his) point with: " ...increase the likelyhood of other allies recieving similar attacks in the hope of bringing more "desirable" gov'ts to power." Such strikes, afterall, do not hinder the cause of The War President.

Posted by: calmo on March 15, 2004 09:20 AM

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As Europe wilts under the strong arm tactics of jihadists, calmo, still wants to blame it on Bush. Spanish passivity will bring more terrorism as the incentive has just increased. Elections can be swung if pressure is brought to bare. Humans react to incentives contrary to calmo's belief and Socialist wishes. Misjudge this fact and painful results will follow. Stay tuned.

Posted by: Brian on March 15, 2004 10:35 AM

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Brian
Please. Whoever has committed this attrocity has highlighted Bush's platform as The War President.
Could Al Queda be this stupid?
The event itself is tragic. The response of 2 million people going to the streets afterward was a moving demonstration.
Only for some it seems.
To characterize these people as 'passive' or 'wilting' or 'made of Playdo' is unpardonable. Was your response to the collapse of the Trade Center any different?
Your thoughts generally here are reactionary( jihad you claim. not Al Queda? or ETA? You already Know, so there is no need to think about it.)
and macho ( the general theme of strong arms being met with same, --maybe not an appropriate strategy for terrorism.)
and, like you said, "bare". (I never won a spelling bee either, but the attention you paid to Any of the aspects of this tragedy was missing, Brian.)
The event Is tragic. And this tragedy carries over/on if we react like Brian and fail to see that arming ourselves to the teeth is no remedy. I am reminded of Conrad's Heart of Darkness where the ship fires its cannons randomly into the dark jungle. We can do better.

Posted by: calmo on March 15, 2004 11:57 PM

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